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The beach near Clifton, just outside Hobart.
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After our visits to Melbourne, Canberra and Sydney, we flew to Hobart, Tasmania, and prepared for a week-long hike in the wilderness between Cradle Mountain and Lake St Clair. Among the highlights of our first few days were a trip out to Marias Island, once a penal colony. A climb to the highest point gave our legs a good stretch. – and tested my increasing discomfort with heights.
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On our way to the highest point on Marias Island, looking back towards the Tasmanian mainland |
We were due to join our group at Launceston, and spent a few days there – more by accident than design. For all kinds of reasons – largely to do with being older than we used to be – we had booked a fully guided hike with accommodation and meals included. We were driving along, the day before we were due to start, when I got a call from the company we had booked with to say that we had missed the bus – and therefore the hike. Checking the diaries, we realised that we had simply got our dates wrong. Not a good feeling. To our huge relief, the company gave us the option of joining another group which would be setting off a few days later. All we had to do was re-arrange our flights, miss out a trip to Adelaide, and hole up in Launceston for three days.
Launceston was a delight, a Victorian town of modest size, with some great examples of period architecture. I particularly liked this old newspaper office (above). The highlights was probably the art gallery, where we caught a fabulous exhibit, on loan from a museum in
Le Havre, chronicling the Tasmanian voyages of the Frenchman Nicolas Baudin in 1800-1804 and displaying some of the works created by his on-board artists.
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Art Gallery, Launceston |
I don’t think I have the will, or desire, just yet, to try to describe our hike. While I wrote over a hundred pages of notes on our vacation, I made none during the six days we spent in the wilderness. Some places do that to you: simply rob you of your descriptive capabilities. For the moment, all I can say is that the whole experience was a sheer delight, quite overwhelming. If I’ve done one walk in my life to compare with it, it would be our trek across the Arctic Circle in 2014 (see http://walkinonnails.blogspot.co.uk/2014/08/the-troms-border-trail-100-mile-hike-in.html)
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A taste of what was to come |
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Snack-break after the first morning’s climb |
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The lichens (above and below) tell you all you need to know about the air quality up there |
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At times it felt rather as though I were back in the American West |
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We grew to love the button-grass,,, |
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…and the sunlight coming through the trees |
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The challenge on Day 4 was to climb Tasmania’s highest peak, Mt Ossia. Quite a scramble – but I did it. |
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The huts we stayed in are supplied twice a year by helicopter: food in, waste products out. |
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The forests were joyous places, essentially unmolested since the last Ice Age, 10,000 years ago. We saw at least one tree that was 2,000 years old. |
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Tasmania’s flora was truly fascinating and utterly foreign to me. I never saw one plant that had a British relative I could think of. Certainly not this climbing currant. |
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You see eucalyptus everywhere in Australia. There are over a hundred varieties, each with its distinctive bark.
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We were a happy group with two exceptional young guides. Here we are at the end of it all, disembarking after taking a boat across Lake St Clair. |
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A handy sign that does some of the work I have opted out of |
This handful of pictures and the few scattered words really don’t do more than hint at the delights of the Cradle Mountain hike. My fault, I’m afraid. I am still grappling with the experience. And, of course, I’m back in this ‘real ‘world now: trying to write the next book, planning a trip to the States in September-October, tending vegetable plots.
I’ll round this off with a quick tour of Western Australia in a few days time.
Don’t forget to check out my e-book The Red House On The Niobrara on amazon kindle http://amzn.to/Jck324 in the USA or… http://amzn.to/JXb4ri for the UK